Grooner - 2008 Grüner Veltliner


grooner_06Are you drinking Grüner Veltliner? If not I highly recommend you start. For the last few years this benchmark Austrian varietal has made great inroads in the US marketplace. Examples of this wine vary from simple quaffable wines, to highly complex, age-worthy selections that beg contemplation, and everything in between. And while savvy wine lovers have been in the know on Grüner Veltliner for a while now word is also starting to reach those that like wine but don’t necessarily spend all their free time geeking out about it. That’s where Grooner comes in to bridge the gap. Importer Monika Caha found that when she poured examples of this wine for consumers they reacted positively but the name caused confusion. So she approached highly regarded winemaker Meinhard Forstreiter to create a selection specifically for the US market. The result is Grooner, which leads with the phonetic spelling for ease. Today I’ll look at their current release. The Grooner 2008 Grüner Veltliner is produced using fruit from the Niederoesterreich appellation located on the southern bank of the Danube. This selection is 100% Grüner Veltliner. The suggested retail price for this wine is $14.99.

Lemon ice, mango and vanilla notes waft gently from the nose of this 2008 Grüner Veltliner. Flavors of orange, continued mango, lemon zest and an undercurrent of green apple make up the mouth-filling palate. Pineapple characteristics kick in about ½ way through and continue through the finish along with hints of honey and a gentle touch of petrol. That final note adds a nice savory edge as well as some extra complexity that lends itself to a very memorable ending.

I’m always interested in intent when it comes to wine. Grooner achieves it’s intent swimmingly. It provides good Grüner Veltliner character at a reasonable price and it’s an appealing, easy to drink version of the varietal that serves as an excellent introduction for those unfamiliar with it. This wine will pair well with a host of foods which is one of the great hallmarks of Grüner Veltliner. That said it drinks nicely on its own and would be an excellent wine to serve with appetizers or before a meal.

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