Villa Poggio Salvi - 2003 Rosso di Montalcino

Montalcino is one of the best known and most highly regarded wine regions in both Italy and the Wine world at large. Brunello is of course the type of wine most associated with Montalcino. However, several other offerings come from this region. There are different criteria placed upon aging and handling in regard to wines which are not Brunello di Montalcino. The next and second most popular designation is Rosso di Montalcino. The wine I'll look at today from Villa Poggio Salvi is such a wine. The 2003 Villa Poggio SalviRosso di Montalcino is of course 100% Sangiovese Grosso as per regulation. The fruit was handpicked and spent 12 month in Slavonian  oak. 4 months of bottle fining followed. Approximately 2,000 cases of this wine are produced each year. The suggested retail price is $32.

A ton of cherry and vanilla fill the nose of this Rosso di Montalcino along with a subtle violet undertone.  This wine is filled with spice notes throughout the complex palate. Dried raspberry, cherry and a touch of earth fill this offerings mid-palate. This is a full flavored, medium bodied wine. The long, layered finish is also loaded with spice character, particularly white pepper, along with earthy mushroom notes.

What I like best about this wine is how much bang it offers for the price. It may be a Rosso di Montalcino but it has the layers and structure of many Brunello's. Decanting this wine for an hour at minimum is strongly recommended. While this is drinking very well now, I'd expect it to improve for 5-6 years and drink well for another 4 or 5 after that.

Imported by Shaw-Ross International Importers.

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Mil Piedras - 2006 Sangiovese

The Mil Piedras line of wines from Benvenuto de la Serna includes five offerings that are each 100% varietal, and one blend. My first experience having these wines was at a large tasting about 3 months ago. I made a note to revisit them. I wanted to see if the positive impression they left me with the first time around was accurate. The Viognier I have already reexamined was even more impressive than I recalled. Today I'm looking at their Sangiovese, which is certainly a fitting varietal for a transplanted Italian winery owner to produce. The 2006 Mil Piedras Sangiovese is produced from 7-year-old Estate vines. 1600 case of this wine were produced and it sells for around $10.

The nose of this wine is full of cherries, light vanilla and cedar notes. The first sip reveals more cherries, strawberries and spice notes. Without question cherry is the dominant flavor of this wine. Not surprising, as that's often the case with this varietal. Those cherry notes are a little richer and slightly brighter than what one might expect from similarly priced Chianti. The finish features linger spice notes and an emerging earthiness. Modest alcohol and excellent acidity make this a wine that shows best with food. I found it to go very well with a wild mushroom Risotto.

What stands out most to me about this Sangiovese is how smooth and elegant it is for such a modestly priced offering. As with the Viognier it over delivers in its price category. With some exceptions, Sangiovese made outside of Italy can be a dicey proposition. Sangiovese made away from it's native home has often big made in an over the top, extracted style which I don't feel suits it. This offering from Mil Piedras is a nice every day value made in the grapes more suited, fruity but balanced style.

Imported by: H & S Specialty Imports Inc.

Up Next: A Malbec from Mil Piedras.

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Benessere Sangiovese

I can count on one had the number of California Wineries that make consistent Sangiovese that is also true to the Varietal. Include Benessere Vineyards amongst their number.Their 2002 Sangiovese is 100% varietal and 100% Napa fruit.

It's also made in a classic old world style. In Italy sangiovese is a work horse. Chianti and Brunello are two examples that use sangiovese as the primary grape.

This sangiovese seems to fall between those two wine styles in weight and substance.  The upfront fruit reminds me of a young Brunello. The classic cherry, spice and cola notes are reminiscent of Chianti.

At five years of age this sangiovese still seems like it has plenty of life left. A couple of years on the cellar will likely benefit it. I'd expect it to pick up additional earthiness as some of the fruit recedes a bit.