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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Tempranillo

Cameron Hughes - 2004 Rioja - Lot 93

btl_lot_93Years ago when I started looking for wines with great value, Spain was amongst the first countries that hit my radar. I loved the predominant style of wines from Rioja and found there were a boat load of stunning values coming from there. Fast forward almost two decades and some things have changed and some have stayed the same. The biggest change is that Spanish wines are much better known by US consumers then they were then. What hasn't changed is that there are still a host of excellent wines coming from Rioja and Spain in general. many of these continue to be excellent values. Today I'll look at a Rioja from Négociant Cameron Hughes. The 2004 Cameron Hughes Lot 93 Rioja is of course composed of Tempranillo. 700 cases of this wine wefre produced and the suggested retail price is $21.

Vanilla, cherry and cedar notes are prominent in the nose of this Rioja. When you first open it this wine is a bit tight and an hour or more in the decanter is recommended to get the best out of it now. Licorice, earth, dusty chocolate, star anise, bramble and more are all part of a complex, layered palate that unfolds as this offering opens up. The finish on this wine long, persistent, intense and more than anything else, impressive in both length and scope of complexity. This is and incredibly structured wine with firm tannic structure and excellent acidity. Pair this wine with a steak, or heck have the wine for dinner.

This offering has the benchmark qualities I think of when it comes to Rioja. Good fruit, structure and nice oak treatment. And it over-delivers in its price category. I have found that to be true of Rioja over the years. I haven't been drinking Cameron Hughes selections as long, but so far he's delivering a lot of value with each offering I have tasted. At this point I'm comfortable enough that I'd confidently pick up anything with the Cameron Hughes name on it and expect a good deal. By the way you could could easily lay down this particular wine for a decade.

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Campo Viejo - 2004 Rioja Reserva

Rioja is the region in Spain that first got my attention. Since that time, I've campodiscovered wines from many other parts of Spain. But Rioja is still, easily, my favorite. Today I'll look at a selection from Camp Viejo. The 2004 Campo Viejo Reserva is made entirely from fruit sourced in Rioja. 85% is Temparanillo, 10% Graciano and the final 5% is Mazuelo. This wine was aged for 18 months in a 50/50 split of American and French oak casks. This selection underwent an additional 18 months of aging once it was bottled. The suggested retail price for this Rioja is $13.

The nose of this wine is dominated by vibrant cherry notes. Cedar is present as well, but slightly less obvious. The palate is filled with red and black cherry notes as well as vanilla and white pepper spice. There is a solid core of pure fruit that drives through the entire palate and leads to the finish. Both earth and mineral notes emerge on what is a smooth, elegant, lush and slightly lusty finish. Good acidity helps keep this wine in balance.

What I like best about this wine is that it displays classic characteristics of a Rioja Reserva, in a modestly priced package. While fairly expressive immediately upon pouring, this wine really came to life after being decanted for an hour. This Rioja is priced well enough for both everyday drinking, and for those looking for a gateway into this region.

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Volteo - 2006 Tempranillo/Shiraz

voltWhen it comes to Spanish wines, Tempranillo is naturally the first grape varietal I think of. In addition to being the primary grape used in Rioja, perhaps Spain's best known region, it's used all over the country in a variety of different wines. Often times other varietals typical to Spain are blended in. Today I'm looking at a wine from the La Mancha region with more than a dollop of another varietal. The 2006 Volteo Tempranillo/Shiraz from Bodegas Rozam is 60% Tempranillo and the balance Shiraz. This wine has a modest alcohol level of 13.5, typical of European wines. This offering is finished with a synthetic cork closure and the suggested retail price is under $15.

Cherry jam along with vanilla fills the nose of this wine. The palate is medium bodied with both back and sour cherry notes intermingling throughout. Some bright raspberry notes emerge in the mid-palate. The finish brings out mocha, clove, mineral and earth notes. This wine has good acidity and nice balance. It'll match paella, roast chicken or a dish of pasta quite well.

The combination of Tempranillo and Shiraz in this wine works very well in my opinion. Each varietal brings distinct elements to the party. For the approximately $10 this wine can commonly be found for it's a nice everyday selection.

Imported by Quintessential Wines

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Sawtooth Winery - 2004 Tempranillo

The third wine up from Sawtooth Winery is a Tempranillo. For those unfamiliar this grape is most often found in the Rioja region of Span. This is not only my favorite region for Spanish wine, but also one of my favorite wine regions in the world. Over the years I've sampled Tempranillo from other areas of the world with mixed results. Most often the wines produced from Tempranillo outside of Spain are in sharp contrast to the ones emerging from this grapes native home. So when I had the chance to taste a Tempranillo from Idaho, I was curious, to say the least. Having enjoyed the previous Sawtooth offerings I've run through this week, my anticipation for the Tempranillo increased. The 2004 Tempranillo from Sawtooth Winery is one of their smaller productions. Only 140 cases of Sawtooththis wine were produced in what was only their second vintage for Tempranillo. The Retail price is $18.99. This wine is finished with a natural cork closure.

The Sawtooth 2004 Tempranillo has an appealing nose of plum and violets, underscored by subtle spice notes. The palate of this wine is rich with cherries from the first sip you take through to the finish, which is full of spice notes that kick in about midway through. Some earthiness and mushroom notes also emerge at the end as the wine opens up after time in the glass. This Tempranillo is gentle smooth and layered. It is made in the same style that Tempranillo is made in its native Rioja. This wine will be a great match for Paella or medium strength cheeses. Manchego would be a natural and perfect match.

What I like most about the Sawtooth Tempranillo is that It's the type of wine I could sip all day. It's full favored, with nice complexity but never tires the palate by being over the top as so many other Tempranillos made outside of Spain tend to be in my experience. Another well balanced and food friendly wine from Sawtooth Winery.

Up Next: 2 Cabernet Sauvignons from Sawtooth Winery.

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Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén - Hemar 2005 Crianza

The final selection for Spanish Wine Week is the 4th wine I've looked at in the Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén  portfolio. Hemar CrianzaAs with the previous three it was produced from fruit sourced in Ribera Del Duero. Hemar's older vineyards at 80 years old are also at an average elevation of 2,730 feet and the soil is quite stony in nature. The 2005 Hemar Crianza spent 13 months in French oak followed by 9 months in bottle before it was released. As with the other wines I tasted in the Hemar line the Crianza straddles the line of New World fruitiness and Old World Elegance. This wine needs about 30 minutes of breathing time before it's fully ready to come out and play. Once it has had that time though it reveals itself nicely. The nose gives of an earthy mushroom muskiness that puts me in the mind of Burgundian Pinot Noir. The mid-palate is an absolute buffet of dark berry fruit with underlying notes of vanilla and a hint of clove. Hints of subtle dark chocolate hit the back of the throat and tease it with their richness. Hemar Crianza is somewhere between medium and full bodied. It's incredibly rich and full in the mouth but doesn't overwhelm. The finish is long, lingering and well above average. More of the earthiness that was apparent in the nose as well as some peppery notes come out in the finish. The acidity and balance of this wine are perfectly in check. This wine will go well with an assortment of grilled meats and other fairly hearty fare.

Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén 2005 Crianza retails at just over $30. For that price I feel you'd certainly be getting fair value for your money. This wine is drinking well now. I'd anticipate it to evolve favorably for a couple of years at drink well until at least the end of 2012.

Imported by The Ravensvale Group.

This concludes Spanish Wine Week. Look for Cabernet Sauvignon Week starting on Sunday!

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Barón de Ley - 2001 Reserva

With so many wines to cover, Spanish Wine Week has crept into a second week. Today's selection, a reserva, brings me back to the Baron de leyRioja region. The Barón de Ley 2001 Reserva was aged for 20 months in new American oak. After that it spent a full 24 months aging in bottle. This first thing the nose of this wine gave off was a strong whiff of menthol. I didn't find that very pleasant but it was also accompanied by some subtle cherry. The initial sip was very tart. This wine needs to be decanted for at least an hour. Once that hour passes the menthol notes dissipate and the cherry come out front and center. Accompanying the sour cherry notes, which are fairly typical of Rioja, is plenty of out front oak. As time goes on the oak fades from the forefront. The mid-plate features more cherry accompanied by some vanilla and spice notes.  The wine has tremendous acidity. Not so much that it's distracting but it is ever-present and should be considered when looking for a dish to pair this wine with. The finish brings out some white pepper and a touch of earthiness. However for a wine that retails at around $22 the finish is below average in length and frankly unimpressive. Overall the wine doesn't have nearly enough complexity to justify it's price tag.

Once Barón de Ley 2001 Reserva opens up it's decent but underwhelming. For $22 this wine is overpriced. If it retailed for half the price it would be much easier to overlook it's shortcomings. However as it stands it's incredibly easy to do much better for that money with wines from Rioja. Therefore there is no way I can recommend this wine.

Imported by Frederick Wildman and Sons.

Spanish Wine Week concludes tomorrow with another selction from Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén. 

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Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén - Hemar 2004 Llanum

2004 LlanumToday's selection is the third of four from Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén. All four are from the Ribera del Duero region. The 2004 Llanum is a limited production. Less than 550 cases of this wine were produced and it was sourced completely from 80 year old vines. Hemar 2004 Llanum was aged for 15 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels. This wine is very tight out of the bottle. I'd recommend ninety minutes to two hours decanting time. Once it opens up though, it really sings. The huge nose reveals mulled spice, candied berries and a hint of toasty oak. The mid-palate features loads of dark plum and berry fruit along with cassis notes, a hint of espresso bean and an undercurrent of bacon fat that hits the back of the throat and sticks there. Llanum is incredibly rich, self-indulgent and mouth-filling. The finish which is above average and impressively long has some dark chocolate notes, more spice and continued big and dark fruit. Along with the rich jammy berry fruit Llanum has excellent acidity that creates a very well balanced wine. The fact that Llanum is sourced exclusively from 80 year old vines shows itself in the concentration and richness of this wine.

Hemar 2004 Llanum is a perfect match for hearty fare. I found it to go very well with a Sausage and Lentil stew from Umbria. As impressive as this wine is now I expect it to age and improve. Laying it down for two to three years should bring out even more complexity. I'd expect it to drink well for at least five to eight years after that. The retail on this wine is between $60 and $65. It's well worth that. This is not a Tuesday night with pizza wine, but it's a perfect special occasion bottle. Sock a couple away now and you'll be pretty happy when you pop them open for Christmas 2010.

No two ways about it, Hemar 2004 Llanum is a tremendous and impressive bottle of wine.  The year is young but I've had the chance to taste several hundred wines already, some of them priced well more than twice as much as Llanum. This is easily the best one I've had so far in 2008.

Imported by The Ravensvale Group. 

Next up in  Spanish Wine Week is a selection from Rioja.

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Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén - 2006 Hemar Roble

Hemar RobleAs Spanish Wine weeks extends into it's 6th day I'm taking a look at another wine from Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén. As with Thursday's wine this one is also from Ribera del Duero. The average age of the vines is 20 years and some of them are as old as 80 years old. Those older vines tend to produce wines of greater extraction and intensity of flavor. The biggest difference in terms of wine-making method between the Hemar Roble and Thursday's Hemar Joven is the way they were aged. Roble spent 7 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels as opposed to Joven's tank aging. Upon opening this wine is pretty tight and shows significant tartness. A solid hour in the decanter does wonders for this selection. The color is a deep and dark purple.

Once it has had the chance to breathe the nose displays big blackberry and cherry notes. The first sip brings out some cedar and subtle spice notes. It's immediately obvious that this is a more full bodied, richer wine than the Joven. The mid-palate is full and round with a real silkiness. More dark berry fruit and some mushroom and earthiness come out in the middle. This wine has excellent acidity and is very well balanced. The finish has white pepper and dark chocolate notes alongside each other. This wine will pair well with medium strength cheeses and roast meats. I thought it went fabulously well with a roast pork loin.

The way the oak is well integrated into this wine but noticeable along with the terrific acidity and rich fruit lead me to believe this wine has a few solid years ahead of it. I imagine the fruit will soften over the next few years allowing the subtle earthiness to emerge further. I suspect it'll evolve nicely for at least two to three years and drink well for another two or three after that.

 The 2006 Hemar Roble is a step up up in complexity, length of finish and overall elegance from the Hemar Joven. It retails at just over $20.00 which is a couple of dollars more than the Joven. They're very different wines, both enjoyable in their own right.

Imported by the Ravensvale Group.

Stay Tuned! Spanish Wine Week continues for 3 more days.

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Bodega y Viñedo Fuentecén - 2006 Hemar Joven

The fourth wine out of the gate for Spanish Wine Week is from Ribera del Duero. This area is right up there with Rioja for overall quality of wine produced. It's also been getting more and more attention each passing year. Ribera del Duero is an almost exclusively red wine producing region. like Rioja, Tempranillo rules the day. Smaller quantities of Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Malbec and Merlot are also grown. Inevitably these are most often used in blends with Tempranillo. The 2006 Bodega y Vinedo Fuentecen Hemar Joven is one of four wines from this Jovenproducer I'll be taking at look at over the next several days. The nose of the wine features a huge bouquet of fresh cut strawberries and a touch of candied plum. This wine is young, fresh and tank fermented. Upon opening, this wine reveals itself almost immediately. There are absolutely no harsh or rough edges to this one. The color is a brilliant black cherry hue. The mid-palate features Bing cherry and copious cherry notes. Joven straddles the line between light and medium bodied. The finish reveals just a tiny bit of tartness and tingly white pepper dancing across the tongue.

This wine has a tremendous acidity that makes it a perfect match for Pasta Primavera or other similarly light fare. Joven also drinks very well on it's own. Tasting this wine made me yearn for warmer weather so I could sit on my deck and sip the whole bottle at a leisurely pace. At 13% the alcohol is very moderate which also lends to sipping it for a longer period of time. The retail on the Joven is approximately $18. For that price I found this wine to be an incredibly enjoyable one to drink. Not the most complex wine out there, but a real pleasure to drink, and at the end of the day enjoyment is what it's all about.

Imported by The Ravensvale Group.

Up next is a Spanish white, Palma Real Rueda.

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Paul Boutinot - 2006 Tinta de Toro

Today's wine, a 2006 from Paul Boutinot, is from the Toro region of Spain. The predominate red grapes in this region are Tempranillo and Grenache. Verdejo and Malvasia are the native white varietals. ToroThe 2006 Toro is 100% Tempranillo. The first thing off of the nose is a bushel of berries. blackberries and blueberries dominate. A hint of oak and a touch of vanilla sneak into the nose as well. Right out of the bottle the wine is closed up, tight and had a few sharp edges to it. It opens up easily and quickly however, with 20 minutes really doing the trick.

Once it opens up this wine proves to be big, rich and mouth-filling with a potpourri of spices on the palate as well as more dark berry fruit. Overall, blackberry notes are the most dominant feature of this wine. An earthiness that was so subtle as to be mostly undetectable before decanting comes out once the Toro has had a chance to breathe. The spice lingers on and is a big part of the above average finish.

This wine is pretty big in the mouth and has more than a bit of a new world feel to it. It would be a good bet with a juicy burger or just about any mushroom heavy dishes.

This wine retails at around $10, and at that price it over-delivers. It's not likely to improve with bottle age, but it should drink well for the next two or 3 years. A good wine for everyday consumption or to bring to a BBQ.

Imported by Boutinot.

Up Next: The first of four wines from Bodega y Vinedo Fuentecen

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Bodegas Montecillo Crianza - 2003

The second wine I looked at for Spanish Wine Week is a 2003 Crianza from the Rioja region. A wine labeled as a "Crianza" is aged at minimum two years, with at least one year spent in oak. Age-wise this is the second rung up in Rioja. The other classifications are Rioja, Reserva and Gran Reserva. Each has specific, minimum aging requirements in oak and bottle to be labeled as such. Tempranillo is the predominant red varietal in this region. The Bodegas Montecillo Crianza has a nose that gives off cherry, oak and a subtle bit of vanilla. It's Montecillo Crianzapretty tart and a touch rough around the edges out of the bottle. Decanting for about 45 minutes softens the edges and diminishes the tartness. This wine is light bodied and the mid-palate features sour cherry flavors and white pepper notes. In some ways it's similar in body and flavor characteristics to Chianti in a similar price range. The finish is below average in length, featuring more of the above-mentioned sour cherry notes. Overall it's a fairly one-dimensional wine. Not unpleasant to drink, but not really impressive in any way either.

Bodegas Montecillo Crianza retails for around $9.00. With the bounty of great deals on Spanish wines in this price range it's impossible for me to recommend this bottle. At best it's a pedestrian offering which does not do a very good job of representing the fine wines coming out of Spain as a whole and Rioja specifically. I should note that I have greatly enjoyed Bodegas Montecillo Reserva and Gran Reserva offerings in the past.

Imported by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, LTD. 

Spanish Wine week continues through the weekend so keep checking back!