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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

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Misiones D Rengo - 2008 Carmenere

There’s a lot of delicious and fascinating wine coming out of Chile. The varieties available run the gamut. Not the least of them is Carmenere. More and more examples of this varietal are appearing on our shelves and they’re starting to gain some traction with wine lovers. Like a lot of what’s coming out of South America as a whole, and Chile in particular, Carmenere can often represent terrific values. Today I’ll look at one from the Rapel Valley. The Misiones D Rengo 2008 Carmenere was made using fruit sourced from vines with 17 years of age on them. In addition to Carmenere (95%), this wine has some Syrah (5%), blended in. After the grapes were hand harvested, fermentation took place in stainless steel tanks at controlled temperatures. 80% of the wine was barrel aged in a combination of French and American oak; 6 months of bottle aging followed. This offering has a suggested retail price of $18.

Eucalyptus aromas are joined my plum, blueberry and wisps of vanilla bean in the heady nose of this wine. Fleshy dark fruit flavors tell the story of this wines palate. Blackberry is of particular note and it’s joined by black raspberry and continued plum. Mocha and chicory characteristics abound in the lengthy finish which also has sour red and black fruit flavors. A hint of brown sugar is present as well. There is a velvety quality to the finish, which along with all the appealing dark fruit flavors, beckons you back to the glass for sip after sip. This wine represents a very solid value and its also a good example of Carmenere as a varietal.

Matetic Vineyards - 2009 Corralillo Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is amongst the varieties that I’m pickiest about in terms of style. To start with I’m a pretty firm believer that nothing else really belongs blended in with Pinot Noir. Of course it should also be planted in an appropriate spot and be treated right every step of the way. There’s a purity and a beauty that can be achieved with this grape when it’s appropriately handled that is distinct and impressive. Of late I’ve run across more and more examples from South America that hit my sweet spot for well made Pinot that stays true to varietal character. Today I’ll look at one from Chilean producer Matetic Vineyards. They have been farming with organic practices and are also taking the appropriate steps to become Biodynamic. To achieve this they’ve worked with noted expert in the field Alan York. His reputation as a Guru of Biodynamic Farming practices is amongst the very best. The Matetic Vineyards 2009 Corralillo Pinot Noir was produced using fruit from two estate hillside vineyards located in their home region of San Antonio Valley Chile. This offering is 100% Pinot Noir. After fermentation with select yeasts the wine was aged in French oak. 900 cases of this vintage were produced and it has a suggested retail price of $27.99.

The hue of this wine is a bit darker than the average Pinot Noir, it approximates deep red cherry in color. Wisps of tobacco and mushroom emerge from the nose of this 2008 Pinot Noir. The cherry theme continues on the palate. Black Cherry leads the way and hints of red cherry are interspersed in there as well. Touches of juicy strawberry also play a role. Black tea notes lead the finish along with cranberry, rhubarb and a spice parade led by pepper and cardamom.

This is a terrific example of Pinot Noir as well a further proof that exciting things are happening with this grape in Chile. The long, lingering finish and the wines overall balance and elegance are its most noteworthy characteristics. This wine is impressive enough to serve at a special meal, but inexpensive enough to indulge in regularly.

Oveja Negra - 2008 Lost Barrel

While I’ve been drinking Chilean wine for many years I feel reinvigorated to taste more and more of them lately. For several decades now we’ve been able to find lots of value in Chilean Wine on US shelves. But now we’re also seeing greater and greater numbers of wines in all price categories. Prices, styles and quality vary; but the bang for the buck is pretty constant across all tiers. Of course not every wine is great, but there are a lot out there to love. Today I’ll look at a Chilean blend from the Maule Valley. The Oveja Negra 2008 Lost Barrel was produced using fruit sourced in the Maule Valley of Chile; more specifically from the winery’s San Rafael Vineyard. This blend is a combination of Syrah (40%), Carignan (40%), Carménère (18%), and Petit Verdot (2%). The Carignan vines have 40 years of age on them. The wine was aged in French oak barrels for 12 months. It has a suggested retail price of $25.

Aromas of dark plum are joined by hints of eucalyptus and a touch of thyme to form a lovely nose. Cherry flavors with a just a touch of kirsch liqueur to them emerge in the palate. Additional characteristics take the form of dried fruits which show up in spades. Black tea also plays a role and leads towards the finish which shows off hints of smoked meat, dark chocolate and a touch of earth. This wine has yielding tannins and firm acidity.

What I love most about this red blend is how well it pairs with food. Quite frankly it’s a food lovers dream. The dried fruit characteristics and firm acidity, which form the backbone of its pairing ability, also put me slightly in the mind of good Chianti stylistically. The finish which is above average is another noteworthy aspect of this wine. Bottom line for me is that for $25 or a bit less if you shop around you’re getting an excellent value.

William Cole - 2009 Columbine Reserve Pinot Noir

Over the last few years I’ve taken note of some impressive Pinot Noirs from Chile. It’s an understatement to say that I'm excited about that turn of events. Pinot is one of my favorite varieties when it’s great, trouble is it’s not exceptional often enough. Too often, particularly in California, it’s planted in the wrong spot or treated with a heavy hand. A dollop of Pinot Noir in another variety is fine with me, anything else blended into a varietal Pinot Noir, not so much. Today I’ll look at a Chilean Pinot Noir that hit the spot for me. William Cole Vineyards is based in the Casablanca Valley, one of Chile’s cooler regions. They have over 129 Hectares under vine. The William Cole 2009 Columbine Reserve Pinot Noir was aged for six months in small oak casks. This offering has a suggested retail price of $15.

Wild strawberry, raspberry, mushroom a hint of forest floor and herb flourishes are all present in the heady, fresh, and inviting nose of this 2009 Pinot Noir. Black cherry and zingy red berry flavors make themselves known throughout the palate along with hints of black pepper. Rhubarb, sour red fruits and a wisp of candied cherry are all part of the finish along with star anise and a touch of chicory. This wine has excellent acidity. I found this Pinot Noir very appealing on its own and it also pair perfectly with a bowl of pasta dressed in a simple tomato sauce.

For $15 This Pinot Noir from William Cole represent a tremendous value. It’s very accessible as well as elegant. It shows off lots of genuine Pinot character and has an above average finish. If you're looking for a case buy of Pinot Noir that you can drink everyday without breaking the budget, this is it. Here’s hoping lots more Pinot Noir of this caliber and value reach our shores from Chile.

Chilean Blends Offer Diversity and Value

Wines of Chile hosted an online tasting of red blends the other night. I jumped at the opportunity to participate for several reasons. First of all, schedule permitting; I rarely turn down the opportunity to try some new wines. Secondly I’ve been a long term fan of the quality, diversity and value at varying price points that’s coming out of Chile. And last, but certainly not least, it’s fun. The format for this tasting was very similar to one I took part in a few months back, and it’s a system that works. Master Sommelier Fred Dexheimer hosted the proceedings from New York City, The winemakers for each of the eight wines we tasted were gathered in a room in Santiago Chile and the rest of us looked on via the web and submitted questions through a chat function as well as commented back and forth. Additionally most folks Tweeted during the proceedings. Tasting the wines and making notes that night was great. Many of the offerings certainly seemed like they had the structure for at least medium term aging. With that in mind I went back to the wines after 24 hours to see how they evolved. Here are my thoughts on these eight wines, presented in the order we tasted them. Valdivieso 2005 Eclat – Fruit for this wine was sourced in the Melozal area of Maule Valley. This offering is a blend of Carignan (56%), Mourvedre (24%), and Syrah (20%). The Carignan vines have over 60 years of age on them. This wine was aged for 12 months in French oak. It has a suggested retail price of $27. This wine, the oldest of the bunch, has a deep garnet hue. Aromas of spice and cocoa are both prominent on the nose. Zingy raspberry flavors are underscored by rhubarb throughout the palate. Minerals and earth notes are both in abundance in the above average finish. This wine is a food lovers dream. The firm acidity makes it a natural partner for a very wide array of matches. I liked this wine so much I wanted to climb inside the bottle and get closer to it. I’d settle for a long weekend with a couple of cases and some delicious food to munch on. Bottom line, this is just an excellent wine that you’re going to want to keep reaching for more of. When I went back to this wine after 24 hours it had held steady and was drinking as well as it had the evening before.

De Martino 2006 “Las Cruces” Single Vineyard Old Bush Vines – Fruit for this wine is from a single vineyard in Cachapoal Valley. This offering is a blend of Malbec (66%) and Carmenère (34%); there are also very low amounts of some other varieties. This wine was aged in French oak for 14 months. It has a suggested retail price of $45. A hint of mint emerges in the nose of this wine. The palate is layered and remarkably restrained for a blend of predominately Malbec and Carmenère. That said when re-tasting it after 24 hours it was significantly more expressive. The red fruits, tinged by hints of darker black fruits were more apparent on day two. The finish which has very good length shows off some sour red fruit elements and continued spice. This wine is remarkably smooth, refined and elegant. In short it’s Grace in a bottle. Delicious now, particularly with food, it should age well for 8 or more years. Pair this with hearty foods for memorable results.

Estampa 2008 Gold Assemblage Carmenère – The fruit for this offering was sourced primarily at their Marchigue estate near the Pacific Ocean. This wine is a blend of Carmenère (57%), Cabernet Sauvignon (23%), Cabernet Franc (12%) and Petit Verdot (8%). This selection has a suggested retail price of $22. The first impression of this wine is the fresh fruit aromas that waft from the nose with conviction. They’re underscored by spice and a touch of herb. Throughout the palate loads of berry fruit flavors emerge and play key roles in what is a very expressive, multi-layered wine. Both earth and espresso notes come out to play in force on the lengthy and persistent finish. Re-tasting this the second day showcased how this wine can really open up with some air and its flavors become even more animated than before. This blend from Estampa has the structure and stuffing to age gracefully for a dozen years at minimum; in short it’s a baby today. More impressive, at $22 this wine is an outright steal. This would be an excellent choice to put away a case of to watch evolve over time. This is a real knockout. If you drink it now decant it for 3 hours to get the most out of it.

Montes 2008 Limited Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Carmenère – Fruit for this blend was sourced at the Montes La Finca Estate in Apalta Valley. This offering is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), and Carmenère (30%). This wine spent six months in American oak. It has a suggested retail price of $15. The dark hue of this wine struck me as it was decidedly more intense in color than the previous three. The nose is filled with heady black cherry and copious quantities of intoxicating plum pudding spice. Those characteristics continue through the palate where red and black cherry flavors play a significant role. The palate is quite layered and while everything is in proportion the flavors are intense, just short of explosive. Minerals such as graphite in addition to other elements like earth and continued black fruits dominate the solid finish. This wine surprised me; I didn’t expect it to be better the next day. In fact I thought this was a candidate to taste a little sluggish on day 2, boy was I wrong. The openness of the flavors really ratcheted up several notches after 24 hours. For $15 this wine offers tons of drinking pleasure. Enjoy it over the next 3-4 years to get the most of its exuberant youth.

Maquis 2006 Lien – The fruit for this wine was sourced at the Maquis vineyards which are between two rivers. This vintage is a blend of Syrah (42%), Carmenère (30%), Cabernet Franc (12%), Petit Verdot (9%), and Malbec (7%). This wine was aged in all French oak. It has a suggested retail price of $19. Black fruits and spice are the dominant characteristics of the nose. The palate is loaded with juicy, red and black fruit flavors. Chocolate notes emerge as well along with spice elements. While the fruit is fresh and intense it never comes close to nudging over the top. In fact all of the elements come together lending themselves towards a wine that has both new and old world flourishes. I find that Lien has lots of wow factor. It’s going to have smart crowd appeal. It has the openness to appeal to the masses and the structure and complexity to keep more seasoned wine lovers happy. For $19 this wine is a very solid value. On the second day I found that it held its own quite nicely. Not built for long term aging, but it’ll drink well for five years. Having had this wine several times over the last few vintages, I can say that the quality and value have remained consistent.

Hacienda Araucano 2008 Clos de Lolol – Fruit for this effort was sourced in the Lolol Valley. This offering is a blend of Syrah (31%), Cabernet Franc (29%), Cabernet Sauvignon (23%), and Carmenère (17%). The Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère vines are some of the last vines in the world not to have known Phylloxera. This wine has a suggested retail price of $23. Aromas of fleshy plum and chocolate sauce are both part of the nose. Cherry comes out in droves on the palate as well as loads of spice, black pepper in particular. Kirsch liqueur emerges on the finish along with flourishes of sour berry. This wine is layered and polished. It has firm but yielding tannins and solid acidity. It drinks well on its own but will be a terrific partner to full flavored foods. On the second day this wine had opened up just a touch more. Mostly it had held steady and showed again a day later that buying this wine for $23 is petty larceny. It stands as one of the two or three best values of these 8 in a tasting loaded with wines that over deliver.

Emiliana 2007 Coyam – Fruit for this wine was sourced in Colchagua Valley. This offering is a blend of Syrah (38%), Cabernet Sauvignon (21%), Carmenère (21%), Merlot 17%), Petit Verdot (2%) and Mourvedre (1%). It was aged for 13 months in a combination of French (80%) and American (20%) oak. This wine has a suggested retail price of $29. A touch of eucalyptus emerges from the nose of this 2007 blend. It’s joined by prominent chocolate covered cherry aromas. Cherry and blackberry flavors along with toasty oak notes are all out with varying degrees of intensity through the palate. An absolute avalanche of dusty dark chocolate emerges on the finish along with earth and chicory notes. Firm tannins yield with some air. This wine is well structured for the long haul. Of the 8 wine in this Chilean Blends tasting Coyam was the most dramatically different the 2nd day. It was quite delicious on day one, but in retrospect akin to a shy child who needs some time to open up and get comfortable. On the second day the flavors just exploded on the palate and lingered on the back of the throat in a persistent finish that left an impression long after the last sip. Coyam is a very impressive wine that I’d love to re-taste 5-10 years down the road to see its evolution.

Casas del Bosque 2007 Gran Estate Selection Private Reserve – Fruit for this release was sourced in Casablanca Valley. This offering is a blend of Syrah (61%), Merlot (26%), and Pinot Noir (13%). This wine spent 22 months in 100% new French oak. It has a suggested retail price of $50. This wine has the deepest, darkest hue of the bunch. Aromas of dark fruit such as blueberry and huckleberry fill the nose. The Pinot Noir in this blend really makes its presence known in the palate; there’s a lighter bodied feel it adds, which belies the weight and heft this overall wine really has. Licorice and baker’s spice flavors join the compote of dark fruit flavors that make up this wines intense, brooding middle. Chewy tannins, and lots of juicy, sumptuous fruit flavors are part of a lengthy finish that has layer after layer of flavor. This wine was a little closed out of the chute and really needed air to open up. On day 2 it had opened up significantly; but quite frankly it tasted like it still had plenty to give. It’s an impressive wine that should definitely be decanted if you drink it over the next few years. I expect this wine to improve in the bottle over the next decade or so and to drink well for several years after that.

Several factors should become obvious to anyone tasting these wines side by side. There are a host of delicious blended wines being produced in Chile from a diverse and ever expanding array of grapes. Some of these grapes are associated with Chile in people’s minds, but many are not, and provide a real sense of discovery. The quality across the board, regardless of price point can be quite staggering. This is particularly obvious when you take into account what the same money buys you in wine from numerous other regions. And while I’m mentioning value let me make it clear I don’t mean Entry level $6 bottles. Value is important regardless of what you spend on a wine. I’m a firm believer that a $100 bottle of wine can be every bit as significant of a value as a $10 bottle. To me, it’s always relative to what else you can buy for that $100, or that $20 for that matter. This tasting of Chilean blends was a microcosm of that idea. The suggested retail prices of these 8 wines ranged from $15 to $50 which is a decent sized gulf for many folks. Perhaps most impressive, that while it certainly varied, each of the 8 wines delivers quality well over normal expectation for the price-point. If you haven't considered Chilean Wines recently, now is a good time to jump in. There are many delicious offerings to try, regardless of your budget.

Casa Lapostolle - 2007 Cuvée Alexandre Syrah

The Casa Lapostolle 2007 Cuvée Alexandre Syrah is a single vineyard effort. All of the fruit for this offering was sourced at Las Kuras vineyard in the Cachapoal Valley of Chile. This vineyard is farmed using Organic and Biodynamic practices. The grapes were hand picked and hand sorted. Barrel aging occurred over 15 months in French oak; 65% of the barrels were new, 16% once used and 19% twice used. Just fewer than 3,400 cases of this offering were produced. It has a suggested retail price of $30. The first thing that stands out about this Syrah is the color, it’s as black as night. Violet, berry and smoked meat aromas are each prominent throughout the seductive nose of this Syrah. Flavors of blackberry, blueberry and dark plum are all present in droves throughout the rich, layered and full flavored palate. Both black and white pepper as well as pencil lead, minerals and chicory are each part of the palate along with earth and a final burst of chocolate sauce that lingers at the back of the throat for a nice long while.

This wine ultimately has more in common with its old world counterparts than most new World Syrah. That said though it does display plenty of powerful fruit both upfront and throughout to have some commonalities with its new world brethren. In any case this is a complex, well made wine that shows off how great Chilean Syrah can be when the grapes are grown with care in an appropriate spot, and treated properly once they’re picked. If you enjoy bold, balanced, complex Syrah here’s one to strongly consider.

Cono Sur - 2008 20 Barrels Syrah

Well priced Cabernet Sauvignon is what first turned me on to Chilean wines many years ago. After discovering the great values available in that category I began to explore others as well. Over the years the other red from Chile that has most often impressed me is Syrah. There are many well priced examples coming from Chile. Stylistically they take cues from both the old and new world. Today I’ll look at a limited release Syrah from Cono Sur. The Cono Sur 2008 20 Barrels Syrah was produced using fruit sourced in the Limarí Valley of Chile. In addition to Syrah this wine also has a small amount (less than 3%) of Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. Fruit was hand picked and fermentation occurred over 30 days in stainless steel tanks. Barrel aging followed over the next 16 months. This wine has modest alcohol content of 13.6%. It sells for right around $19.

The first thing that’s apparent about this 2008 Syrah is the deep, dark, inky, purple hue that springs from the glass with brooding intensity. The nose is loaded with brambly fruit, leather, dust, cigar box and an underlying wisp of thyme. Crushed cherry flavors with a velvety edge lead the palate which is intense and full flavored in its attack. Blackberries and copious spice notes follow. They all lead to an intense and layered finish which shows off chicory, tobacco, black pepper, earth, sour cherry and a hint of dark dusty baker’s chocolate. Fine acidity keeps things balanced.

This is a really nice Syrah that provides tons of varietal character and lots of bang for the buck. A perfect wine to pair with roast pork dishes such as Pernil or even BBQ. This one is worth the effort to seek out. Drink it over the next 2-4 years for maximum pleasure.

A Look At Chilean Sauvignon Blanc

I recently took part in a virtual tasting and had the opportunity to sample a number of Sauvignon Blanc’s from Chile. It was an interesting concept, eight winemakers in one room in Santiago Chile, a sommelier hosting from New York City and wine writers at home, all connected via web conference and tasting the same wines. I’d had tons of Chilean Sauvignon Blanc prior to this tasting, but sampling them side by side was illuminating. It showed off not only the variety of climates and terroir but also a host of winemaking styles. Each Sauvignon Blanc we tasted was pretty distinct. What follows are my impressions of the four that stood out to me. First up is the Ventisquero 2009 Queulat Sauvignon Blanc. The fruit for this selection is from vineyards located in Casablanca Valley. Following slow fermentation at a constant temperature the lees were stirred. The suggested retail price for this wine is $17.

Citrus aromas and a hint of vanilla bean are present in the nose. White peach and mango fruit emerge in the palate. As those fresh fruit flavors head towards the finish they take on a savory edge. Minerals kick in as well as lemon zest and a hint of creaminess. Solid acidity keeps things in check. This is an excellent warm weather wine that will work nicely when paired with light foods

The second wine that stood out was the Undurraga 2009 T.H. Sauvignon Blanc. Fruit for this selection was sourced in the Leyda Valley. The vineyards sourced are planted to three different clones of Sauvignon Blanc. Fermentation occurred over 22 days in stainless steel tanks at low temperatures. The suggested retail price for this offering is $16.

Characteristics of citrus and grass appear in tandem on the nose of this Sauvignon Blanc. The flavors on the palate are very well integrated with lime, minerals and additional citrus fruits playing key roles. The fruit notes turn savory on the finish and they’re joined by increasing mineral as well as spice notes. I found this wine most enjoyable on it’s own where its subtle charms shine brightest.

The third wine I really enjoyed was the Valdivieso 2009 Single Vineyard Wild Fermented Sauvignon Blanc. Fruit for this wine was sourced at a single vineyard in the Ledya Valley. This wine was allowed to ferment with it’s natural yeast and as such none was added. Aging occurred in 500 liter French oak barrels over a six month period. The suggested retail price for this wine is $21.99.

A hint of almond leaps out of the nose first followed by a strong contingent of mineral aromas. Graprefuit is underscored by a hint of barley on the even keeled, well intregrated palate. Ginger, lemon and chamomile are all part of the finish which closes with a burst of creaminess. Fine acidity keeps things in check. This wine will stand up to dishes a notch or two more substantial than the average Sauvignon Blanc. I found this offering to be unique, intense and just lovely.

The fourth wine that stood out was the Cono Sur 2009 Sauvignon Blanc. This offering was made from fruit sourced in San Antonio Valley. All the grapes for this wine were organically grown. The suggested retail price for this offering is $13.

Orange cream sickle and wisps of grass fill the nose of this wine. The palate on this Sauvignon Blanc is full flavored and loaded with fruit; citrus in particular and stone fruit to a smaller degree. The mouth feel is creamy and all these flavors lead to a persistent and layered finish that shows off spice, mineral and green chili notes. Solid acidity keeps this wine nicely balanced. For $13 this Sauvignon Blanc is a steal. It works well on its own and with food. This is a good bet if you want to pour a crowd pleaser for a bunch of people this summer.

What the wines above do is show off a little bit of the wide range of Sauvignon Blanc styles and flavors coming out of Chile. The entry point is relatively inexpensive so it’s a good country and varietal combination to experiment with.

Veramonte - 2008 Ritual Pinot Noir

There’s something about Pinot Noir that can be downright inspirational when it’s made right. When the fruit is allowed to shine and enhanced rather than burdened by oak and its purely Pinot it can be quite magical. At least I know that’s how I feel about Pinot. While I rarely turn down the opportunity to sample one, my expectations are tempered with the knowledge that it takes a lot to impress my palate when it comes to this grape. Today I’m going to look at a brand new release from Veramonte in Chile. Their varietal wines, particularly the Sauvignon Blanc have been consistent values and Primus, their proprietary blend is often a category stand out. The Veramonte 2008 Ritual Pinot Noir is produced using fruit sourced in the Casablanca Valley of Chile. This selection is 100% Pinot Noir. Barrel aging occurred over 12 months in exclusively French oak; 40% of the barrels were new. Highly regarded winemaker Paul Hobbs was a consultant on this project. The suggested retail price for this wine is $17.99.

Ripe wild strawberry, cherry, and fleshy plum aromas waft enticingly from the nose of this South American Pinot Noir. These are joined by hints of rhubarb. Black cherry and strawberry flavors intermingle throughout the gentle but full flavored palate of this wine. A terrific spice component kicks in around mid-palate and continues through the finish which features hints of cocoa, light cherry cola, white pepper, mushroom and emerging earth notes. This wine has silky tannins, excellent acidity and terrific length. It drinks marvelously on its own and will also pair with a wide array of foods. Roast Pork Loin and Mushroom Risotto are the first to spring to mind.

As I mentioned I think good Pinot Noir can be tricky to find. That’s particularly true in the under $20 category. That said, Ritual from Veramonte is one of the best under $20 Pinot’s I’ve had in ages. The price says $17.99 but when you taste it you’ll find it compares favorably to many Pinots in the $30 price range. If you’re a Pinot Noir fan, this is worth making a special effort to seek out.

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Dinner With Winemaker Cristobal Undurraga

Terrapura_Sauvignon_Blanc_Label_mainDating back to the 1880’s the Undurraga family has played a significant role in the Chilean wine industry. As it relates to Chilean wine in the US they were the first to export here. And when Chilean wine started to find a significant home on US shelves they led the charge in brand recognition. In 2006 they sold their namesake winery, brand name and vineyard. But instead of retreating from the wine business they approached it anew. Alfonso Undurraga Mackenna great nephew of Undurraga founder Francisco started a new brand with his sons. Thus Koyle Winery was founded. I recently had the chance to sit down with winemaker Cristobal Undurraga and taste the wines he’s making with and for his family winery. The goal at Koyle Winery is two-fold. They want to show off the fact that Chile can produce small lot premium wines. And within that focus their goal is to over deliver on each release. Throughout dinner, Cristobal who is a charming speaker told us very passionately about their goals for the Koyle brand. Before tasting the Koyle wines though we tasted through the family’s value brand Terrapura.

The wines in the Terrapura range are varietal selections. With 25,000 cases of each made they’re going to be widely available on US shelves. Each of them has a suggested retail price of $9.99.

Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Carmenere are the Terrapura wines we sampled. There is also a Cabernet Sauvignon in this line. While I felt they were each well made and more than fairly priced, two stood out as favorites for me:

Terrapura – 2009 Sauvignon Blanc. This first wine of the night also turned out to be one of the favorites for both myself and others at the table. It’s loaded with lots of very fresh fruit flavors. Citrus abounds. It has tremendous acidity and a touch of creaminess on the finish. For $10 this wine is a steal.

Terrapura – 2008 Merlot. This offering has a big an alluring nose filled with rose petals and cherry aromas. Throughout the palate it features continued cherry, as well as chocolate and plum notes. The finish is beautifully dry with earth, chicory and spice. This Merlot is well balanced with good acidity. It’s tough to find a Merlot in this price category with this type of varietal character. That’s going to make this selection hard to beat.

Cristobal spoke knowledgeably about the Terrapura wines though he doesn’t make them. One of the decisions the family made when they started anew in 2006 was to operate their value and premium lines as separate wineries as opposed to different lines in the same winery. I can’t speak to what they would have tasted like if they didn’t make that decision. But I can tell you that what they decided worked very well. There are style differences in addition to qualitative differences in these wines that make them distinct.

Koyle Winery was named after a purple plant that can be found in their mountain vineyards. The wines are produced from both estate fruit and sourced grapes. The fruit they source comes from long term growers who have relationships with the Undurraga family that date back many years, assuring they get the quality they are looking for. Currently Koyle has four releases. The total case production for them stands at around 12,000. This encompasses two Cabernet Sauvignons and two Syrahs.  Each wine has a standard release ($16.99) and a “Royale” ($25.99) which is their version of a reserve offering. The 2007 vintage that we tasted is the first for the Royale wines. My impressions of these offerings follow:

Koyle_Syrah_2007_BottleKoyle - 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. This selection also has 12% Carmenere blended in.  This Cabernet has a really big and expressive nose showing lots of dark, brooding berry fruit. Berry flavors continue through the palate joined by spice and earth notes which lead to a nice finish. This wine has firm tannins. If you’re drinking it now decanting is heartily recommended.

Koyle – 2007 Syrah. 13% Carmenere is also blended in. Blueberry, plum and blackberry are all prominent in the nose of this wine. The palate has an appealing jammy feel to it. It seems to find a sweet spot that nestles itself between the very ripe offerings that often come from Australia and the more reserved old world selections. This would pair beautifully with barbecue foods.

Koyle – 2007 Royale Cabernet Sauvignon. Malbec (9%) and Carmenere (6%) are blended into this selection. I found this Cabernet to have even darker fruit than its counterpart.  It also has bigger, firmer, chewy tannins and a notably lengthy finish. This wine is nice now, but I don’t think it’s close to being at its best yet; 5 years of proper storage should help this one really evolve. It should drink well for several years after that.

Koyle – 2007 Royale Syrah. 11% Malbec and 4% Carmenere are blended into this wine. The nose of this Syrah is loaded with floral notes. Cassis, blackberry pie and copious baker’s spice emerges throughout the full bodied and rich palate. Dry fruit and espresso notes kick in on the lengthy finish. As with the Cabernet this wine will easily get better in the upcoming years under proper storage conditions.

Speaking with Cristobal throughout the evening and tasting the wines his family is producing was a noteworthy experience. His passion for wine in general and the promise of Chile in particular shines through with every word he utters. The Undurraga family has played a key role in the history of Chilean wine. It stands to reason that they will be one of the producers that causes the world to realize, on a larger scale than they currently do, that Chile stands not only for value but for premium quality as well.

Most impressive to me is that each of these wines does meet their stated goal of over-delivering on their price-points. That’s no small feat. If you drink Chilean wines, keep your eyes open for the Koyle and Terrapura wines, they’re well worth giving a shot. If you currently don’t drink much wine from Chile, this wouldn’t be a bad place to start.

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Montes - 2006 Limited Selection Cabernet Sauvignon / Carménère

label_montesls_cscaI've been drinking wines from Montes in Chile for many years now. They have many different tiers of wines.  I've personally gone back to those in the Alpha and Classic series most often. But I've found that there is value to be had in each of their categories.  In addition to the various tiers they also have properties in other countries, under their umbrella, that produce wine. Over the next couple of days I'll look at two wines from Montes in Chile and two from Kaiken their Argentine operation. First up is a blend. The 2006 Montes Cabernet Sauvignon/Carménère is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Carménère. 70% of the wine was separately aged in American oak for 6 months. This wine, is one of three, in the Montes Limited Selection series Each of them has a suggested retail price of $17.

Cedar and blackberry notes are prominent in the nose of this wine. Throughout the palate red and black berry fruit notes star alongside, subtle but present, spice notes. Sweet dark chocolate leads the finish, followed by espresso, black pepper and earth notes. The finish is above average in length. This offering is well balanced with good acidity.

I found this wine to be fairly open and accessible from the word go. But it really opened up, and hit a new plateau of expressiveness, after about 45 minutes in the decanter. What I like best about this wine is how the 2 components in the blend work off of each other. The Cabernet provides structure and bright berry fruit. The Carménère softens things up and chips in a round, lush, slightly jammy mouth-feel. Combined together, they form a nice package. This offering should drink well for the next 4-5 years at minimum. While the retail price is $17, wine-searcher shows that it's often available for less than $15.  It pairs well with full flavored foods and drinks nicely on it's own. Taking everything into account, this is a pretty nice value.

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