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Wine: Reviews, Thoughts & Culture

Michael Shaps Wineworks: A Noteworthy Producer

Michael Shaps Wineworks: A Noteworthy Producer

Virginia wine you ask? Why yes indeed. The truth is that my knowledge of Virginia wine isn’t likely to fill the apocryphal thimble. The same can be said of my experience tasting or drinking it. There’s no particular reason for that, outside of the tried and true: too much wine, too little time. So while I’d previously had a couple of wines from Virginia, none really piqued my fancy. On a given day the amount of wine sitting, waiting patiently for me to taste it, is a blush worthy quantity. Put another way, my two kitties, Mrs. Howell and Mr. Furley have no lack of exciting new boxes to climb inside of, or sit on top of every week. What I’m saying is that I didn’t go out of my way looking for more Virginia wines. Eventually, I thought, I’d get to them. Then my friend Frank who writes the terrific Blog, Drink What YOU like invited me to take part in a Virginia Wine Chat (#VAWinechat). He created VA Wine Chat and has been hosting them about once a month for roughly 2 ½ years. Frank identifies VA producers he feels strongly about and travels to them and hosts a virtual tasting with the winemaker. Writers such as me are invited to take part at the specified time. Those of us that agree are sent the wines in advance of the tasting. Having taken part in a lot of virtual tastings (I tend to like them, though I understand some of my friend Jeff’s points in his recent story about them), I gladly accepted since it fit my schedule and I also really enjoy what Frank does.

Three wines were on the itinerary from Michael Shaps Wineworks and I was intrigued from the outset, starting with the fact that I could tell Frank was super excited about the Petit Manseng, a grape I have about as much personal experience with as I do Virginia Wines. Then add the fact that I never, ever, under anything but the most extreme circumstances turn down the opportunity to taste Cabernet Franc. To top it off we would close with a Meritage which would allow me to see what Michael Shaps does with blends too. What I found when we tasted the wines was genuinely eye opening. I enjoyed each of them for different reasons.

Michael Shaps 2014 Petit Manseng ($30)

This wine is composed entirely of Petit Manseng from a single vineyard. It was fermented mostly in French oak (33% new) and a small amount of stainless steel. It’s bottled after about 6 months. The nose is gorgeous with lychee fruit and a bit of toast. Golden fruit flavors dot the substantial palate. A hint of honey shows up on the long finish. This wine has firm acid and marvelous structure. It got more and more interesting as it warmed up.

Michael Shaps 2013 Cabernet Franc ($28)

Made of entirely Cabernet Franc it was fermented and aged in 100% French oak; 50% of the barrels were new. I love the aromatics of Cabernet Franc and this example delivers them in droves. Red and black cherry lead the way along with a dollop of leather. The palate shows off tons of red cherry fruit along with a host of spices. All of those elements continue on the finish where a bit of dusty cocoa and black tea joins in as well. What I like best about this wine is the gorgeous mouth-feel; it’s loaded with texture but supple in weight. If you like Cab Franc, find this!

Michael Shaps 2010 Meritage ($50)

This Meritage blend is made up of Merlot (40%), Cabernet Franc (24%), Cabernet Sauvignon (12%), Petit Verdot (12%), and Malbec (12%). It spent two years in French oak, 50% of it was new. Michael told us during the chat that he’s held this wine back a few extra years as he didn’t feel it was quite ready yet. In fact his 2012 is already out. I’d say he made the right decision as this wine is ready to enjoy now. The Cabernet Franc stands out a bit to me here (big nose) which I really like. Other than that it’s a pretty cohesive wine with all of the varieties coming together to form a delicious tapestry. Red fruits lead the show with tinges of black raspberry in play as well. The finish is long and deep with persistent spice and earth notes reverberating for a long while.

What a great wine chat. These wines all hit the spot for me. Michael’s wines are connected by the freshness of fruit and balance of each offering. The Petit Manseng was a complete revelation. I’m not sure what I’m going to seek out first, more Petit Manseng or more Virginia wines, but I intend to explore both further. If these wines are any indication it’s high time I jump on the highway and point myself toward Virginia. When I do Michael Shaps will certainly be at the top of my list. Hunt for these wines, they’re well worth it.

Inconceivable 2012 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

Inconceivable 2012 Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

The Inconceivable line is a set of wines produced by Middleton Family Wines. Utilizing the resources at their fingertips when it comes to sourcing grapes and the like, they set out to make some specific wines.

Indaba Wines Offer a Value Priced Taste of South Africa

Indaba Wines Offer a Value Priced Taste of South Africa

One of the things I’m always on the search for is value priced wines that are delicious and distinct. Two offerings from South Africa’s Indaba that I recently sampled fit the bill. Chenin Blanc is the signature white grape there and this is a lovely example in its price point, whether you’re sipping it solo or pairing it with food. The Red blend made from Bordeaux varietals is a versatile wine for pairing from medium to full flavored foods.

Indaba 2015 Chenin Blanc ($11.99)

This wine was produced entirely from Chenin Blanc sourced in the Western Cape region. After hand harvesting, most of the fruit was fermented in stainless steel. A small amount (3%) was fermented in French oak and aged on the lees for 6 months. White flower aromas and hints of toasted hazelnut emerge from the nose. The palate is stuffed with peach, lychee fruit, apricot and nectarine flavors. A gentle hint of sweetness emerges on the finish along with orchard fruit flavors and a touch of crème fraiche. This is a fabulous wine to pair with foods that have some heat in them. I enjoyed it alongside Peri-Peri Chicken (see below) and roasted potatoes.

Indaba 2014 Mosaic Red Blend ($11.99)

Cabernet Sauvignon (69%), Merlot (17%), Malbec (6%), Cabernet Franc (4%), and Petit Verdot (4%) were combined to form this blend. Fermentation and aging took place in stainless steel tanks. Black raspberry and bits of smoke leap from the nose here. The palate is loaded with black cherry, continued raspberry and tons of spice. Sour cherry, black pepper and bits of espresso are present on the above average finish. I paired this with the same foods and it went well with those as well as with dark chocolate with sea salt. It’ll also be a fine match for burgers dusted with Peri-Peri Rub.

Each of these wines represents a more than solid value for the price. They’re tasty, true to the grapes represented and fun to drink. Paired with the correct foods they climb another notch. You can’t go wrong with these wines, so stock up for parties or casual week night meals.

Peri Peri Chicken

Ingredients:

1 Cup fresh lemon juice

1 Tablespoon of olive oil

A Splash of dry white wine

5 Tablespoons of Peri-Peri Rub

4 Chicken breasts

 

Directions:

In a large bowl, stir together the Peri-Peri rub, olive oil, wine, and lemon juice. Rub chicken with the mixture, place in a dish and marinate for 3 hours, turning occasionally to coat. Preheat a grill for medium heat. Place chicken onto the grill and discard the marinade. Cook until the skin is slightly charred and juice run clear.

Château La Lauzette 2010 La Lauzette Declercq

Château La Lauzette 2010 La Lauzette Declercq

Château La Lauzette is one of a growing number of wineries in the Cru Bourgeois du Médoc that is owned or run by women. This in a region who the average wine lover tends to believe the Château’s are passed down from Father to son from one generation to the next. This particular winery is run by Liz Roskam and her husband Franz. She’s originally from Illinois and relocated to Bordeaux in 2002. They took over the vineyard in 2005.

Château La Lauzette 2010 La Lauzette Declercq, Haut- Médoc, Cru Bourgeois ($30)

This Bordeaux blend combines Cabernet Sauvignon (70%), Merlot (28%), and Cabernet Franc (2%). Aging took place over 12 months in French oak; 33% of the barrels utilized were new. 3,500 cases of this offering were produced. Bits of toast and black raspberry aromas are present on the welcoming nose. The palate is stuffed with a bevy of fruit flavors including cherry, black currant, and dried black fruits. In addition savory herbs such as sage and thyme are also in play. Bits of red fruit, black tea, earth, minerals and chicory are all present on the above average finish. Approachable tannins and firm acid help provide fine structure upon which all of that fruit is built. This is a restrained, elegant and lovely wine that is counterbalanced by plenty of eager fruit flavors. In short it should satisfy wine lovers with a variety of different palates. While this offering was great sipped alone it really stood out with food. I paired it with a burger topped with Smoked Gouda, caramelized onions and a side of rosemary roasted potatoes, which was a fantastic match.

Villa de Varda Impresses with a Wide Range of Grappas

Villa_de_Varda_Grappa_Amarone_Stravecchia-FRONTA couple of weeks back at dinner with Michele Dolzan I had the opportunity to taste through some of the different Grappa’s his family produces as well as learn all about their history. Michele is part of the fourth generation and along with his brother’s carries on the family tradition as well as bringing it forward to current times by instituting higher standards, and using modern technology to their advantage. Villa de Varda produces a wide range of different Grappas. Within their portfolio are single varietal Grappas, blended Grappas and selections aged using different methodologies and vessels. In short all of these things lend themselves to Valla de Varda having a wide ranging assortment of Grappas that offer a variety of flavors and drinking experiences.

They have developed the “de Varda” method which has subsequently been adopted by some other producers. It has three basic steps to it. The first involves the raw materials... Head over to The Daily Meal to read the rest.

Australia’s First Families of Wine Deliver a Powerful Message

IMG_20150715_001052A few weeks back I attended an Australian wine event in Manhattan. This particular tasting was an interesting one indeed. Some of the country’s leading family-owned and multi-generational producers selected wines from their libraries to showcase to American trade and media. The main portion of the tasting was a sit-down seminar led by Mark Davidson, Australia’s worldwide wine educator. Alongside him, family members from each winery whose offerings were being poured that day were on hand to speak about their wine and Australia in general. There are a couple of general misconceptions floating around about Australian wine. One is that the country’s producers make big, blustery wines that are long on upfront fruit and flash and short on finish and substance. The other is that that Australian wines don’t age. The problem is neither point is really valid; certainly not as wholesale statements. Every wine-producing country has great, good, and bad producers. Certainly, Australia still has some who make boatloads of overripe shiraz. However, there are many more making proportionate shiraz as well as a very wide range of other offerings. It’s time to realize that there are as many diverse styles coming out of Australia as any other wine-making country. Not to mention much, much more than just shiraz, no matter how tasty it can be. Head Over to The Daily Meal to read the rest.

Well-Priced, Tasty Wines From Washington State’s Maryhill Winery

11525-1_Red_Wine_12Founded in 1999, Maryhill Winery produces more than 80,000 cases of wine annually. To produce those wines, they source fruit from eight different growing regions and work closely with a dozen growers. That allows them to have a portfolio of offerings that are diverse both in style, intent, and price point. Craig and Vicki Leuthold founded and still own this family business. Their wines are available throughout the country. Maryhill Winery itself is located on the Columbia River in Goldendale and has become a go-to destination, drawing more than 75,000 visitors per year. I just sat down and tasted through a handful of their wines and found a lot to like. Maryhill Winery 2012 Winemaker’s Red ($15)

This offering is a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, and cabernet franc. Fruit was sourced across numerous Washington state regions. Aging took place in tank, using oak staves over a period of 11 months. Booming cherry aromas burst from the nose of this red; a bit of leather provides a lovely aromatic counterpoint. The extremely appealing palate is loaded with a plethora of sweet but proportionate red and...Head over to The Daily Meal to read the rest. 

Emilio Moro and the Versatility of Tinto Fino

MalleolusTinto fino is a specific clone of tempranillo. In fact, it’s thought by many to be the purest expression. Last week, I tasted with Emilio Moro winemaker Jose Moro and learned firsthand about this grape’s purity of expression as well as the wide swath of flavors and characters it can exhibit, which vary based on a number of factors.  Everything they do at Emilio Moro is aimed at producing the best possible expression of their vineyard sites. Emilio Moro has plantings that are relatively new, and others that are close to 100 years in age. Their goal is to showcase what tinto fino can achieve in their vineyards in Ribera del Duero. Each wine in their portfolio is a carefully considered expression that is site-specific in its intent. As a winery, Emilio Moro employs a combination of tradition and innovation. At their heart, they are traditionalists, and their winemaking methodologies are time-tested and pure. However, they have the foresight to use modern technology and technical innovations to provide the information and support they need so that they can employ those traditional techniques in the optimal... Head over to The Daily Meal to read the rest. 

Lost Canyon 2012 Russian River Valley Chardonnay / 2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Lost Canyon 2012 Russian River Valley Chardonnay / 2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

Lost Canyon Winery is a project of Dry Creek Valley’s Fritz Underground Winery. They have long had Russian River Valley offerings in their portfolio in addition to wines from their Dry Creek Valley home. The Lost Canyon Project is specifically aimed at highlighting single vineyards. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are two grapes that can often be interesting as vineyard designates. Here’s a look at two current releases. Lost Canyon 2012 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($35)

All of the fruit for this offering was sourced at the Ruxton Vineyard; the vines have 35 years of age on them. It’s entirely Chardonnay and after native yeast fermentation it was aged for 10 months in French oak (90% new). Just fewer than 700 cases were produced. Stone fruit aromas such as yellow peach and apricot dominate the nose here; bits of spice join in as well. The juicy palate is studded with orchard fruits such as Anjou Pear and Golden Delicious Apple. Minerals and lemon ice characteristics light up the long, crisp finish. This is a delicious and refreshing example of Chardonnay.

Lost Canyon 2012 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($45)

This single vineyard effort was produced from fruit grown at the Morelli Lane Vineyard. Fermentation took place in open top tanks using native yeast. Punch downs occurred 2-3 times a day over 10 days. Barrel aging was accomplished over 10 months in 40% new oak. 300 cases were produced. Spice characteristics lead the nose here along with cherry, raspberry and strawberry aromas. Black cherry and bits of raspberry are present on the palate along with continued spice and a dollop of earthiness. Pomegranate and cranberry emerge on the finish along with cinnamon and clove. Firm mouthwatering acid keeps everything in check here.

Both of these wines are loaded with good varietal typicity as well as being somewhat classic examples of Russian River Chardonnay and Pinot respectively. The Lost Canyon offerings are reasonably priced for relatively small production wines from single vineyards. They are well worth your time and money.

Bokisch Vineyards, a Burgeoning Jewel in Lodi California

BokischTempranilloLodi2012Having spent a lot of time in many of California’s wine-growing regions, it was about time that I made it to Lodi. A couple of weeks back I did exactly that as a guest of the Winegrowers of Lodi. Over a period of four days, the group I was with extensively toured vineyards sites and wineries. Along the way, we tasted something like a boatload of wine — maybe a little more. The trip was designed to open our eyes to Lodi as a premium wine-growing region, and it did just that for me. While I was aware that some fine wine was coming from the area, I had no real idea about the wide array of grapes being grown or how many boutique producers there are doing their own thing. In short, there are a lot of exciting things going on in Lodi, California, and I’ll get to many of them in time. For now, though, I’m focusing on one producer. Bokisch Vineyards was founded after Markus and Liz Bokisch lived for a year in Spain, where Markus spent his summers during childhood. Refreshing this connection to his heritage made an impression on both Markus and Liz. After moving back to the United States, they settled in Lodi and bought land to start their winery. With their obvious love for Spanish wines and culture, their next decision made complete sense: They would focus entirely on Spanish varietals. Head over to The Daily Meal to read the rest:

Puccioni Vineyards, Dry Creek Valley’s Ultimate Mom & Pop Shop

puccionibottleThere are an overwhelming number of wine producers out there. That leads to countless bottles on shelves all over the world. Some of those labels have a neat little story on them about the winery, the grapes, or something else. Too often, those stories are marketing spin, created to make a wine more appealing. It doesn’t mean anything is particularly wrong with that wine, but if the wine I’m drinking has a story attached, I want it to be real, not from the land of make-believe. Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley is fortunate to have quite a few real stories. It’s an area dotted with family wineries, some fairly new, others generations old. One of my favorite stories and wineries for a variety of reasons is Puccioni Vineyards. The Puccioni Wine story starts way back when Glenn Proctor’s great-grandfather Angelo Puccioni plantedzinfandel more than 100 years ago. In fact, zinfandel has been grown on the site without interruption since 1904. The original iteration of Puccioni as a winery was in 1919. That version lasted through 1935, even surviving Prohibition with a government license. Selling grapes to home winemakers during that period helped as well. This is a practice they continued for many years after Prohibition ended. Head over to The Daily Meal to read the rest.

Big Reds and Whiskey for Dad

KaikenMai10Father’s Day is around the corner, so it’s time to get Dad a gift. I suppose you could get him a tie, but it’ll probably end up at the back of his closet with so many other unnecessary artifacts. Instead, give him something delicious to drink. Here are 11 well-made wines and whiskeys that will quench his thirst and leave him smiling. Who knows — if you’re lucky, he may share. Harney Lane 2012 Old Vine Zinfandel ($35)

All of the fruit for this truly old vine zinfandel was sourced at a single vineyard site. Lizzy James Vineyard was planted in Lodi, California, back in 1904. It was aged in French oak for 21 months. Black raspberry and plum aromas lead the charge on the deep, dark, and heady nose. Blueberry and blackberry flavors fill the...Head over to The Daily Meal to read The Rest.

Steelhead Vineyards - 2013 Sauvignon Blanc / 2013 Pinot Noir

Steelhead_Pinot.PR_Steelhead Vineyards is owned by Katy and Dan Leese who also founded the V2 Wine Group which owns a number of properties. Steelhead Vineyards itself is committed to charity. A percentage of all their sales are donated to Trout Unlimited. This group does outreach with Northern California Wineries to help them move towards improved water practices. This includes restoration of Salmon and Steelhead habitats on their properties and more. More information can be found on their website. Hugh Chapelle, from Quivira Vineyards, is the consulting winemaker. Here’s a look at two of their current releases. Steelhead 2013 North Coast Sauvignon Blanc ($13)

The fruit for this wine (100% Sauvignon Blanc) came from Lake County (80%), and Dry Creek Valley (20%). It was fermented in stainless steel at cold temperatures with a small amount sitting on the lees.  Just fewer than 6,000 cases were produced. Pineapple, yellow melon, mango, and lemon zest aromas are all present on the inviting nose. Apricot, white peach and a bit of spice show up on the agreeable palate which is easy going with more than sufficient depth. Minerals, hints of grass, white pepper and a hint of papaya all show up on the finish. This clean, crisp and fresh tasting Sauvignon Blanc is delicious all by itself and will pair well with creamy cheeses, light foods and the like.

Steelhead 2013 Sonoma County Pinot Noir ($15)

The fruit for this wine, all Pinot, was sourced in Sonoma County. Fermentation took place in open tanks with punch downs as well as some closed tanks with pump overs.  Aging took place in a combination of tank and barrel over 10 months. Just fewer than 12,000 cases were produced. Bing cherry, wild strawberry and hints of spice appear on the welcoming nose. A core of red fruits tinged lightly with black fruit characteristics are joined by lots of spice and mineral elements on the layered palate. Cinnamon, cloves, sweet cocoa, red cherry and bits of cranberry are all present on the above average finish. Firm acid lends structure and adds to the mouth-watering nature of this wine. Balanced Pinot Noir with good varietal typicity is hard to come by in this price range. That makes this wine a bit of a steal at $15.

These are very solid everyday wines. They’re both express their varietal quite well and provide a very impressive amount of delicious drinking pleasure for their price points. If you’re looking for a house white or red to purchase by the case, you’ll do well with these offerings from Steelhead. And you’ll also help make a difference. Sounds like a good deal for all involved.

Give Mom Something Delicious For Mother's Day!

With Mother’s Day just days away, many of us are scrambling for the right gift. If your mom is like most, she likes a glass of wine every now and then. I just tasted through a lot of different offerings and found a diverse group that, depending on your mom’s tastes, will each hit the right spot. Whether she likes aromatic whites, reds (gentle or bold), or delicious bubbles, here are some great options. Head over to The Daily Meal to read the rest

Robert Mondavi Winery: An American Icon Approaches 50

Robert Mondavi Winery: An American Icon Approaches 50

IMG_20150428_091953In 2016, the Robert Mondavi Winery will celebrate its 50thanniversary. Having just spent a couple of days in Napa Valley as their guest, I’ve been thinking a lot about the impact that the man and his namesake winery have had on U.S. wine history. Back in 1966, when Robert made the bold move of leaving the family business (Charles Krug Winery), he had audacious ideas. He believed that Napa Valley was capable of producing world-class wines on par with those from any region of the world. In particular, his standard was French wine. Back then, Napa Valley had only a small number of wineries. In fact, the Robert Mondavi Winery was the first large winery built there since prohibition. Today, Napa is home to more than 800 different wine brands of all shapes and sizes. Most of this wouldn’t have been possible without the vision, dedication, and relentless passion of one man: Robert Mondavi. Striving to make the best wine possible..Head Over to The Daily Meal to read the rest

Pinot in the City Showcases Willamette Valley's Delicious Wares

pinotVintners from a broad array of Willamette Valley wineries showcased their wines at New York’s City Winery recently. It has been 50 years since the first pinot noir vines were planted there, so the gathering had a festive quality. There’s an extraordinary amount of good pinot noir in Oregon — it’s what the state’s wine producers are known for. However, as the tasting clearly exhibited, it isn’t the only thing they do well. Over several hours, I sampled pinot noir in a host of styles as well as chardonnay, pinot gris, and more. It’s been a few years since I’ve made it out to the Willamette Valley, so I was glad to have this opportunity to taste through a cross section of the area’s offerings right here in New York. The bottom line is that Oregon, and the Willamette Valley in particular, has a lot of delicious wine coming out of it. Thoughts on a handful of my favorites follow. Head over to The Daily Meal to read all about them.

Marc Mondavi and Family Present Aloft

aloftMany members of the Mondavi Family have been involved in the California wine industry for generations. Their two largest and best-known wineries are Charles Krug, part of the Peter Mondavi family, and the Robert Mondavi Winery, which was started by Peter’s brother Robert. While these are tentpoles in Napa Valley, various Mondavi family members have started and maintained all sorts of other projects of varying scope One of those projects is Aloft,. created by Marc Mondavi and his family. Marc, one of Peter’s sons, conceived this wine with the help of his wife and daughters. All of the fruit comes from their own Cold Springs Vineyard, which sits on Howell Mountain in Napa Valley. I recently sat down with Marc’s daughter Alycia and tasted the 2009 vintage of Aloft. Head over to The Daily Meal to read the rest.

Clayhouse Vineyard: Home to Distinct Paso Robles Wines

ClayhouselogoOver the last decade the Paso Robles region in California has really emerged as a resource for excellent wines. Paso contains a number of distinct sub-regions and very wide arrays of different grapes thrive there. Producers of all sizes are making interesting wines. Clayhouse Vineyard is a producer I’ve been familiar with for a number of years now. As a whole they make wines that are well priced, full of character and available around the country. Here’s a look at 5 current releases that I heartily recommend. Head over to The Daily Meal to read the rest.